According to curly and kinky hair specialist Juninho Loes, many women lack a sentimental memory of their natural hair, which is why breaking paradigms, ditching straightening chemicals, embracing natural curls, and redefining societal standards is a reclamation of ancestry and self-love. To provide an atmosphere of confidence and support during this process, which often disrupts emotional balance, Loes combines techniques and treatments, incorporating various hair care schedules, using active ingredients to fortify the hair structure from the inside out. This process aims to solidify the hair’s chemistry while introducing tailored care for natural hair, enhancing a woman’s experience during the transition. To achieve this, the specialist offers crucial tips for caring for curly hair.
Firstly, always choose a shampoo with a lower pH (between 5.0 and 6.0), which is hydrating and detangling, to prevent porosity. Opt for conditioners with a pH matching that of hair (between 4.0 and 4.5) containing emollients for deep conditioning. Use curl, coil, and wave activators as they are the best options for maintaining your hair’s natural pattern and beauty, especially for long-lasting “day after” looks. To define curls, it’s essential to embrace the diversity of characteristics. In Brazil, genetic diversity can lead to 2 to 7 different curl patterns and textures on the same head. Although some sections might not be curly, correct product usage, including the right activator for your curl category, is crucial. When finishing, apply the activator (as desired), ideally by section, using a scrunching motion about 2 to 4 times, then do the “finger coiling” technique.
For drying, use a hairdryer with a diffuser attachment to inhibit airflow, reducing frizz and achieving 60% to 100% dryness. If you’re after more volume, remove the diffuser and direct the airflow towards the roots to achieve movement and volume. Use the hairdryer at medium temperature with medium airflow for wavy hair and maximum airflow for curls and kinks.
Curly hair care schedules are divided into four stages: “umectation” (moisturization), hydration (water replenishment), nutrition (nutrient provision), and reconstruction (protein and keratin replenishment). These are the most recommended. Note that while reconstruction treatments containing proteins and keratins can strengthen hair, overuse can lead to stiffness and breakage. Use hydration and nutrition without restraint.
For wavy to curly hair, aim for 2 to 3 treatments weekly, with two treatments and one conditioning. For curly to kinky hair, do up to 2 treatments weekly, being cautious with reconstructions, and perform a weekly “umectation” treatment. For very kinky hair, aim for one treatment per week, alternating between hydration and nutrition each week, while “umectation” is always recommended.
